Tuxedo Shirts - 3 Main Types

The tuxedo shirt is an integral part of your tuxedo ensemble, but which shirt collar to wear? Here is a quick guide for tuxedo shirt collars.

1. Wingtip tuxedo shirt - The classic shirt known for it's small triangle tabs. Most popular styles have 1/4" to 1/2" pleats but the non pleated wingtip shirt is gaining popularity fast. The wingtip shirt is a must have in your formalwear collection as it is the most formal. For White Tie events, a white pique tuxedo shirt is the only shirt allowed to be worn.

2. Laydown tuxedo shirt - While it shares the same style collar as a business shirt it still has a formal appeal. Also made in 1/4"-1.2" pleats, the most popular is the non pleated version. The non pleated fly front version is gaining popularity since the new James Bond films portray him wearing this type shirt. Ralph Lauren and Joseph Abboud both have excellent laydown tuxedo shirts in pleated and non pleated.


३. Madarin collar tuxedo shirt - Also know as the Nehru or banded collar is the least formal of the three. The tuxedo shirt is excellent for proms, DJ's, or cruise tuxedo packages that can be less formal. Made in pleated and non pleated, the non pleated with a fly front provides a smooth clean look that requires no tuxedo studs be worn.

Tuxedo Fabrics - Super 100's Wool Explained

The word "Super" in regard to wool indicates that the fabric was spun at a high twist rate when the cloth was manufactured। This process produces a finer fabric that is softer and lighter than worsted wool. These fabrics are excellent for warmer climates.

The "S" number (ie. Super 100's) refers to the fineness of the wool in microns that the tuxedo is made from. The higher the number the finer the wool thread has been spun. For easy reference think of the way bed sheets get softer and smoother as the threads per square inch goes up. The same rules apply with the wool used in making tuxedos, higher the number = smoother finish.

This number should only be used a reference when selecting a tuxedo as the grade of the wool also plays a factor in the quality of the fabric. This is seen in some of the higher end tuxedos that are made from Super 100's fabric but feel and wear better than a tuxedo made from Super 150's fabric. Lora Piana is a top producing mill known throughout the formalwear and suit industry for its quality wool blends. Joseph Abboud and Lubiam use Lora Piana wools to make gorgeous tuxedos.

Vented Tuxedo Jackets?

Over the past decade vent less tuxedo jackets have gone from Soho to 5th avenue. The main reason non-vented tuxedos have become so popular is due to the slimming effect it has when tailored correctly.

Sacrificing the vent causes a bit more wrinkling in the jacket but this is offset by the trend of not wearing the jacket again once seated. Often a guest attending a black tie affair will leave the jacket on the back of their chair once the main ceremony is done. In the past a tuxedo jacket was worn at all times retaining the formal look through out the night. Now full back tuxedo vests are all the rage and allow for a formal presence without the need of the tuxedo jacket.

Vented tuxedo jackets are not out of place at any black tie event, just not as common. The vented jackets have the added bonus of comfort while sitting during the ceremony and also allow easy access to the back pockets. Having side or center vents make the jacket drape over the waist and rear sections of the body in a more natural way.